Demna's Appointment at Gucci: A Bold Move in Challenging Times

The luxury fashion industry faced significant news when Demna was appointed as Gucci's artistic director. Initially surprising to many, including industry experts, this decision comes during a difficult period for luxury brands. Following a pandemic-era spending surge, luxury customers are now prioritizing experiences like travel and wellness over fashion purchases.

Market reaction was largely negative, with Kering shares dropping 12% after the announcement. Fashion enthusiasts also expressed skepticism, with only 10% of respondents to a Business of Fashion poll believing Demna was the right choice for Gucci.

However, there's a strategic logic behind this decision. Kering needed an established name rather than risking another unknown designer. With other top talents like Jonathan Anderson likely headed to Dior, Matthieu Blazy preparing for Chanel, and designers like Hedi Slimane and Maria Grazia Chiuri not offering the required fashion innovation, Demna emerged as a pragmatic choice.

After a decade at Balenciaga, Demna's aesthetic had completed its natural cycle. The move creates an opportunity for both Demna and Kering to address multiple challenges while retaining key talent. His existing relationship with Kering means he can begin developing ideas immediately while completing his final Balenciaga couture collection.

The paramount question is whether Demna can stretch his aesthetic beyond the recognizable parameters that have been set up-those of his signature Vetements/Balenciaga style. Transplanting his style over to Gucci would probably go awry. On the flip side, he has quite the resume: trained under the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp; worked with Margiela and under Marc Jacobs and Nicolas Ghesquière at Louis Vuitton.However, there is the consideration of the ongoing PR crisis at Balenciaga, and amid all that, Demna infuses thoughtful provocation and deep commitment to his work. Recently emphasizing wellness, he seems to be emotionally prepared for one of fashion's biggest challenges.In other significant fashion news, Donatella Versace is pivoting to chief brand ambassador as Dario Vitale moves in as creative director. Haider Ackermann made his debut at Tom Ford, while Sarah Burton debuted at Givenchy during the Autumn/Winter 2025 season; many collections touched on the themes of eroticism and deconstructed classic shapes.